A Simple Guide to Tomato Varieties (And How to Grow Each One Well)
Not all tomatoes are created equal! This guide breaks down all tomato varieties one tomato at a time; beefsteak, paste, cherry, and heirloom tomatoes so you know exactly what to plant for sauce, salads, or snacking. Includes growing tips, spacing, watering advice, and a quick reference chart for your kitchen garden. Perfect for beginner gardeners planning a cottage-style vegetable patch.
GARDEN & FOOD
8/10/2026
If you've ever stood in front of a seed rack completely overwhelmed by names like "Brandywine," "San Marzano," and "Sun Gold," you're not alone. Tomatoes come in more shapes, sizes, and personalities than almost any other garden vegetable, and picking the right one makes the difference between a plant that thrives and a harvest that just sits there, unused, on the counter.
This guide breaks tomatoes down by what they're actually good for — sauce, salads, snacking, canning — so you can plant with a purpose. Whether you're working with a raised bed, a few containers on a porch, or a full kitchen garden tucked behind a cottage, there's a variety here that will earn its space.
Slicing Tomatoes (Beefsteak Types)
Best for: sandwiches, burgers, caprese salads, anything where you want a thick, juicy slice.
Beefsteak tomatoes are the big, meaty ones — think Brandywine, Big Boy, or Cherokee Purple. They're mostly flesh with fewer seed cavities, which is exactly what you want on a plate but not necessarily what you want for sauce (too much water, not enough concentrated flavor).
Growing tips:
Give them full sun — 6 to 8 hours minimum.
Space plants 24–36 inches apart; they get large and need airflow to avoid disease.
These are almost always indeterminate, meaning they keep growing and producing all season. Stake or cage them early, before the plant gets unwieldy.
Consistent watering matters most with beefsteaks — irregular watering is the main cause of cracked skins and blossom end rot.
Expect 75–90 days to maturity.
Paste Tomatoes (Roma Types)
Best for: sauce, salsa, canning, sun-drying.
Roma, San Marzano, and Amish Paste tomatoes have dense flesh, fewer seeds, and less water content, which means they cook down into sauce faster and last longer in jars. If your kitchen garden goal is stocking a pantry, this is the category to prioritize. This a great canning starter kit for canning to get you started on your homestead & self-sufficiency journey.
Growing tips:
Most paste varieties are determinate, meaning they grow to a set size and produce most of their fruit in a shorter window — ideal for a big canning day rather than a slow trickle all summer.
They tend to need less staking than sprawling indeterminate types, though a simple cage still helps keep fruit off the soil.
Plant in well-drained soil; paste tomatoes are prone to blossom end rot if watering is inconsistent, so a layer of mulch to even out soil moisture goes a long way.
70–80 days to maturity is typical.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes
Best for: snacking, salads, roasting whole, lunchboxes, and anyone growing in containers.
Sun Gold, Sweet 100, and Juliet are reliable, generous producers (this is a nice multi-pack so you can try a few different types). If you only have room for one tomato plant this year, a cherry variety is the most forgiving and rewarding choice — they're less picky about perfect conditions and tend to keep producing right up until frost.
Growing tips:
These do beautifully in containers or small raised beds, which makes them a good starting point if you're gardening on a porch or in a small side yard.
Most are indeterminate and will need a trellis or tall stake — they can easily reach 6 feet or more.
Pinch off the "suckers" (the small shoots that form in the joint between the main stem and a branch) to keep the plant's energy focused on fruit rather than foliage.
60–70 days to maturity, often the earliest tomatoes of the season.
Heirloom Tomatoes
Best for: flavor above all else — salads, slicing, and impressing dinner guests.
Heirlooms like Cherokee Purple, Green Zebra, and Mortgage Lifter are open-pollinated varieties passed down for generations, which means you can save their seeds year to year and get true-to-type plants. This is a multi-pack that I personally use (the green zebras are my favorite!) The tradeoff is that they're often less disease-resistant than modern hybrids and can be uneven in shape.
Growing tips:
Rotate where you plant tomatoes each year (a 3-year rotation is ideal) to reduce soil-borne disease, which heirlooms are more susceptible to.
Good airflow is non-negotiable — space plants generously and prune lower leaves that touch the soil.
Because flavor is the whole point, avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which pushes leafy growth at the expense of fruit flavor. A balanced, tomato-specific fertilizer works best.
80–90 days to maturity.
Cocktail Tomatoes
Best for: a middle ground — bigger than a cherry, smaller than a slicer. Great for salads and snacking with a bit more substance.
Varieties like Juliet or Sakura fall here. They're a nice option if you want the productivity of a cherry tomato with a bit more heft per fruit.
Growing tips: Treat these much like cherry tomatoes — stake well, keep watering consistent, and expect a steady harvest through the season rather than one big flush.
General Tomato Growing Basics
A few things apply across every variety:
Determinate vs. indeterminate is the most useful distinction to understand before you plant. Determinate varieties stay compact and fruit all at once — great for canning. Indeterminate varieties keep growing and producing until frost — great for a steady kitchen supply.
Start seeds indoors about 6–8 weeks before your last frost date, or simply buy starts from a local nursery if you're short on time.
Harden off seedlings over about a week, gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions before transplanting.
Companion planting with basil, marigolds, or borage can help deter pests naturally and makes for a prettier garden bed besides. This is a multi-pack of companion plant seeds for a good starting point.
Water at the base, not overhead, to keep foliage dry and reduce fungal disease.
Mulch generously — straw works beautifully and keeps both moisture and weeds in check.
A well-stocked tomato patch, with a couple of each type tucked in among the herbs and flowers, will carry you from the first sun-warmed cherry tomato of summer all the way through a pantry shelf of homemade sauce come fall. That kind of self-sufficiency is, in its own quiet way, the whole point of growing a garden at all.
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